wow, thank you

Can anyone tell me where to go to get the customized heat shrink tubing? I'd like to start branding my cables as well. Thanks.

An easy way to remember the wire numbers is to call X = eXternal shield, L = Live (hot) and R = Return (cold) or XLR =1, 2, 3. Happy soldering.

Congratulations for the care and affection you devote to your cables. A good job, no doubt. Fantastic tutorial.

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'It's very important to be mindful of whether you're doing a male or a female'. I wholeheartedly agree. Thankfully something I've always been mindful of

Who the fuck says "soul-der?"

Razor blade for cutting jacket? Lock connector to vise? Why? Amateur... You need an OLFA knive and lock another connector to vise, when you solder a male connector lock an other female and put it. I using Zippo lighter for shrinking, this is faster. When you soldering a lot of cables speed is very important thing!

I love the desk.

Which T strip do you recommend? Where did you get the Custom Flux Shrink Wraps! They are really really cool

Great vids loved both of them! One of the best things to invest in while doing this stuff is some solder wick. It's a braided material which sucks up excess or old solder. Super cheap, though can be hard to find. But really helps if you put too much solder on or just have a lot of burnt/oxidized solder from a previously used cable.

Good video Mike! If it's okay I'd like to clarify one thing. The "Hot" and "Cold" as you term are actually both hot and simply opposite phases of the balanced circuit. The circuit ground is your low or "Cold" and chassis ground is the "Earth" ground, which looks like the little upside down pyramid made up of three to five descending lines on a schematic symbol. You will often wire equipment with balanced cabling that has the shield broken (detached) at the input of the device, while device chassis will be grounded to a main ground bus. This is known as telescoping shields.

@moosebeats - You'll want to tin the soldering iron first by applying a little bit of solder to the iron directly but then when soldering the wires to the cups you'll want to heat up the cups and the wire and then add solder all at the same time to ensure a good connection. Temperature varies, some people like to stay on the low and slow side others hot and fast I personally set mine to 600ºF. Check out Mike's first tutorial which talks about some of this too - http://www.puremix.net/video/soldering-guitar-cables.html

A couple questions I have after watching this. Where do we apply to solder iron? Directly to the solder, or to the wires and let the heat from the wires melt the solder? Also how hot should the iron be?